As my toes sink into the mud the mind, body, connection is complete. Breath deep, fresh jungle air, stimulate your hypothalamus. Breath mother! Now let it go. Breath deep. Now let it go. Cresting the hill a little peak down at the break, I think it looks good, sounds good. Could it be? YES! Nobody out. A quick "what up" to the cuidador he'll be the only spectator today, better shred for him. Try to be patient the tide is a little low still. Screw it paddle out
Now be patient look for the good ones. Nature seeps in while I paddle over waves the offshore spray is perfect. A lull, damn it's beautiful here lush tropical greenery right down to the water's edge. The atmosphere is crystal clear because it rained earlier, Costa Rica shining in the distance. The light filters through the clouds. The waves are backlit. Spray shining.
Here comes some good ones. Time your paddle right it's low tide. Paddle hard and slip right into one, it throws over me, the sound, I wish I could describe it to you. That's when you know you're in there. Barrels all the way. Kick out over the back of the wave and paddle hard cause it's low tide. Whew! That was sick. What a good barrel. Ahhhh Yes.
Sitting in the line up waiting, thoughts start to drift. Could it be I'm really in Nicaragua enjoying these beautiful waves while people are fighting for their freedom of expression, while express myself to my fullest. People are literally fighting for their freedom! It's unreal how beautiful it is. Others, most of the others are getting hungry because they don't have a job any more. What am I doing here? Should I even be here?
Another wave. Paddle really hard. A corner to hit, no hesitation, tear it, airdrop another corner do it again. Even harder holy made it! Nope dug a rail. Ah hahahahah that was good I hope Cesar saw it.
Should I be here? Yes.
I've got to stay. Bring the people back. Without guests the hotel closes. Without guests everybody I know gets really poor. Really, really poor. Back to dirt floor poor.
You! You reading this. You can help. The problem in this part of Nicaragua is economic which is easy enough to solve. And fun to solve. Come and support the Costa Dulce family. Plan a vacation in Nicaragua this winter. Normally we are all booked with yoga retreats in prime vacation season this is your chance. We have lot's rooms and are offering our all inclusive packages all year round.
As a tourist you are not involved in the complicated political situation and therefore in no danger at all. You can still do yoga, hike through the jungle, visit a market. All the normal stuff people do on vacation.
Many people enjoy Nicaragua for it's genuine feel. You actually get to experience the culture. Now more than ever, with less tourist it's like going back in time and experiencing it 10 years ago. Genuine.
We are offering pick ups in Liberia, Costa Rica which is closer than Managua. Closer and you don't have to pass through any part of Nicaragua where there has been any protesting. Slide right into paradise. Added bonuses of flying into Liberia include, more flight options, cheaper flights and quite often more direct flights.
What are you waiting for? Visit Nicaragua 10 years ago. Uncrowded and pristine waiting with open arms.
Below is the only picture from the surf session in question.